In, Out, and Around: Jan 17th & 18th

Jan 17th

Today we traveled to the District Six museum in downtown Cape Town, a testament to the forced removals that moved colored and black families out of the city and onto the Cape Flats, tearing down neighborhoods and tearing apart families. It was a stirring memorial. We then got lunch at a place called “Charlies”, which was very colorful and where Oprah apparently bought a cake once. Also, I had my first near-death experience attempting to cross the street downtown, shortly after which Vernon addressed the group and informed us that pedestrians do not have the right of way even when the walk sign is green, and must defer to turning traffic. In fact, a visibly pissed police wagon nearly took out the back third of our group as we dilatorily crossed an intersection. Continue reading In, Out, and Around: Jan 17th & 18th

Welcome to the Mother City: Jan 15th & 16th

Jan 15th

Here’s our first official day in Cape Town. Much of it was spent exploring Rondebosch, the busy suburb nearby. This area essentially served as World 1-1 for us, an introductory zone where we could figure out how to navigate, use ATMs, and cross the street without being annihilated by traffic, which is a lot harder than you might imagine (they drive on the left side of the street here! FYI!). Continue reading Welcome to the Mother City: Jan 15th & 16th

United States to South Africa: Jan 13th & 14th

Hello all!

I’ve been in Cape Town for almost three weeks now and it’s high time I start to share some of my experiences. My posts thus far have been for the official UConn Cape Town blog- so they’ve been more formal, thought-out, etc. This post will be none of those things! So read on and check out the accompanying pictures!

Jan 13th

My lovely mother drove me to JFK nice and early for my fifteen-hour flight to Johannesburg. I feel like I said goodbye twelve times and kept looking back over my shoulder as I entered the terminal. I realized I’ve never been this far away from home for this amount of time, ever, period. Even at UConn home is only 90 minutes away (via Ragnhild). Continue reading United States to South Africa: Jan 13th & 14th

The Golden Arrow

As you might imagine, Mexican food in South Africa is pretty mediocre. At least, this was the impression I got at while dining at a Mexican/Southwest fusion place in town the other night. I was there with a whole bunch of my housemates, and when asked for their opinions on their meals, just about everyone responded with something like “Ummmm, it’s….. good! Yeah.” Then again, it was probably appropriate to have low standards for a white-owned Mexican fusion restaurant on the southern tip of Africa. While joyously celebrating the end of my first week abroad with R15 tequila shots (yes, that conversion’s right!), I noticed that all the customers were white. Since this was a college-crowd restaurant in the leafy, largely white and city-proximate Southern Suburbs, that didn’t particularly stick out to me; however, the entire wait staff was also white, and that struck me as unusual. Every restaurant we had dined at previously had a majority black or wait staff. I thought to myself: where are all the black folks? And then I watched a Golden Arrow bus drive by, packed with black and colored people. Continue reading The Golden Arrow

Checking In: Week 3

Hey y’all,

It’s been a whirlwind two weeks. Our orientation schedule has been absolutely jam packed, and tomorrow is my first day at Treatment Action Campaign. There has literally been a lot going on.

I will be using this blog for my personal updates, commentary, asides, humor, frivolity. I am also posting more formal entries on the UConn in Cape Town 2014 blog, which can be found at cptadventures2014.blogspot.com. While the posts on this blog will be generally more casual and breezy, I will repost my entries from that blog here as well. Check out the official UConn blog to read about the full spectrum of my co-educators’ experiences and see some sweet pictures.

I will write when I can- there’s been some great stuff.

Love to y’all,
David

 

Arrival

My first glimpses of Cape Town were seen through the window of an airplane. Sitting three seats in from the nearest window, the first image I saw besides the sky was of the ocean, vast and glittering blue. The plane banked for a turn, and when we leveled out I saw between heads the massive stone immensity of Table Mountain, level with the altitude of our descending plane. After that, I saw glimpses of city and structures before others’ heads blocked the window, and at last we touched down.

We were greeted like family by Vernon, Marita, Ben and Liz, and led out of the terminal to where a bus was waiting. I knew from my prior research that the Cape Town International Airport was located on the Cape Flats, an expansive low-lying region to the east of Table Mountain and the city proper, an area where many of the black townships are located. Our bus took us out of the airport and along a smooth highway, passing shiny warehouses and billboards that advertised the new BMW 4 series, an Afrikaans historical drama, and a new texting app. So far the Cape Town I had seen was consistent with the city’s designation as World Design Centre for 2014, with the glossy images from South African Airways’ promotional Sawubona magazine, the high-tech splendor of Cape Town International Airport, and with the New York Times’ recent article that named Cape Town the #1 place to visit in 2014. Continue reading Arrival

Winter Reading

While I did not accomplish all I had wanted to do over Winter break (including finishing my afghan), I did, however, take advantage of the opportunity to read. I first began reading Nelson Mandela’s autobiography Long Walk to Freedom, which I finished shortly before New Year’s. I found the book to be ultimately thrilling, as it detailed the trials and victories of the anti-apartheid movement and profiled the emotional and intellectual development of a freedom fighter, from guileless child and eager political novice to determined lawyer, shrewd political activist, militant freedom fighter, indefatigable prisoner, and ultimately the father of a renewed nation. I was struck by the incredible collection of people who fought for the freedom struggle, from trusted black elders, to white communist anti-apartheid lawyers, to young black freedom fighters, to colored and Indian activist allies. As a powerful and privileged white western man living in a world with so much class, race, and gender-based exploitation, violence, and inequality, I was inspired by the integrity and action of the struggle’s white allies, who took the road less traveled and fought to dismantle the very system that guaranteed them and their children better lives. Many of the individuals featured in this book left an indelible impression on me.

I also read “Defiant Desire: Gay and Lesbian Lives in South Africa”, which contained a history of gay and lesbian organization and communities in South Africa, as well as a collection of papers written by queer South Africans. Ultimately, reading this book in parallel to Mandela’s autobiography led me to perceive the social struggles of the white LGBT activists profiled in the book’s history in a more critical light. Much of the history focused on the attempts of middle-class white gay men and lesbians to form groups and create spaces in which they could live their lives freely. The groups that formed were almost all universally apolitical to the ongoing conflict over apartheid. Afraid of exposure (and the possibility to be fired or stigmatized by the homophobic society at large), these groups refrained from taking a position in the apartheid struggle, in my opinion making them entirely complicit in the system of racial domination. For these activists to later campaign for their rights while remaining silent in the larger Apartheid struggle struck me as an indefensible lack of moral responsibility, especially when contrasted with the intersectionality and collaboration that was such a prominent theme in Long Walk to Freedom. This is to say nothing of the fact that ignoring the ongoing struggle against apartheid also represented a complete lack of concern for the lives of black gay and lesbian Africans, who were in many cases forced to live lives of silence or be marginalized in their own already dominated communities. While the white gays faced a legitimate threat of social exclusion with the disclosure of their queer identities, it is difficult for me to reconcile this legitimate oppression with their identities as privileged individuals in an unjust and exploitative society. I hope future reading will further inform my understanding on this subject.